Crossing the Umbertino Bridge, which connects Syracuse to the island of Ortigia, feels like stepping into a world suspended in time. The traffic and pace of modern life fall away, while the ancient heart of the city welcomes visitors with its theatrical atmosphere, rich Baroque architecture, and breathtaking sea views.
Though just one square kilometre in size, Ortigia is one of the most captivating expressions of Sicilian Baroque.
Its heart is undoubtedly Piazza Duomo, a majestic space where Syracuse’s white stone merges with the ever-blue sky above.
Here stands the Cattedrale della Natività di Maria Santissima, which encapsulates millennia of history. Built on the ruins of an Athena temple, it was later transformed into a Christian church and restored during the Norman period. The façade we admire today, with its intricate Corinthian columns, and an entrance adorned with a royal eagle is a Baroque, is a masterpiece designed by Andrea Palma in the early 18th century.
Flanking the cathedral is Palazzo Beneventano del Bosco, a 15th-century noble residence later redesigned in Baroque style, and the Palazzo Arcivescovile, which, with its harmonious, Neoclassical-leaning lines, completes the exquisite architectural dialogue of the square.
The beauty in the details of baroque art
Baroque art in Ortigia reveals itself not just in grand spaces, but in the smallest details: sculpted portals, balconies supported by grotesque masks, and the golden glow that limestone takes on at sunset.
A stroll along Via Roma or Via della Maestranza feels like walking through a theatrical set, where architecture is never just decoration, it’s an expression of a deeply rooted and dramatic identity.
Among the religious buildings that reflect this heritage is the Church of Santa Lucia alla Badia. Rebuilt after the 1693 earthquake, it stands out for its refined two-tiered Baroque façade, where a cornice serves as a balcony, separating the lower Baroque structure from the upper Rococo influences.
From baroque stage to film set
The grandeur of Ortigia’s Baroque and its cinematic charm have made it a favourite location for films and television, showcasing its timeless elegance to audiences worldwide.
Ortigia has served as the backdrop for many productions, from the beloved series Il Commissario Montalbano, which features it in several episodes, to Hollywood blockbusters like Indiana Jones and the Dial of Destiny (2023), with scenes filmed at the dramatic Castello Maniace. More recently, the Netflix series Il Gattopardo (2024) chose Ortigia’s Baroque palaces as the setting for several scenes (which we wrote about here). But one of the most iconic films shot in Ortigia is undoubtedly Malèna (2000), directed by Oscar-winning Sicilian filmmaker Giuseppe Tornatore.
The island isn’t just a backdrop: it becomes a character in its own right, with its silent, melancholic charm echoing through every frame.
Visiting the island of Ortigia, you’ll understand that Baroque isn’t merely an architectural style: it’s a language of wonder, a continuous invitation to slow down and be amazed.
Photo credits
Alfio Garozzo
